Patchouli Ardent

The version sold today is the Absolus Allegoria one. The house builds it on dried patchouli leaves, whose multifaceted woody scent it praises, and places rose in the heart, blended with patchouli to underline its sensuality. A leather and musk accord extends it.

The 2020 formula

In 2020, the house announced a top of pink pepper, black pepper, and fig, a heart of patchouli, Turkish rose, and cedarwood, and a base of leather and musk. These materials are described here in prose only, since they do not appear in the house’s current description.

What the critics perceive

Persolaise, in March 2020, focused on the link between fig and patchouli, with the floral notes serving as a bridge between the two. He said he had come to enjoy the fragrance more and more after first presenting it on video.

Varanis Ridari, of The Scented Devil, reads it as a rose and leather patchouli, with fig and a touch of tonka that evoke black tea. He describes a musky, animalic opening, a rose that rises slowly, and a dry cedar with a slightly sour leather.

What the label declares

The list published for the Absolus Allegoria version places patchouli oil right after the fragrance and water, ahead of a synthetic woody note, Virginia cedarwood oil, and rose flower oil or extract. Cedar, absent from the current description, is therefore in the formula.

It also lists bitter orange flower oil, isoeugenyl acetate and isoeugenol, rose ketones, and a UV filter, butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane. The 2020 list also included a second UV filter and an antioxidant, which have disappeared. No lilial, no lyral.