
Not A Perfume Superdose takes up the formula of Not a Perfume at 20 % concentration, which Romano Ricci describes as the strength of an essence. The same single raw material, Cetalox, the same refusal to be a perfume, but a sillage that carries and lasts. Released in the autumn of 2019, it addresses those who could not perceive the original.
One raw material and nothing else: Cetalox, which the house lists on all three of its declared tiers. What changes lies in the charge, not in the formula, identical to that of 2010.
Cetalox in the only role
Cetalox is the trade name Firmenich gives to its synthetic substitute for ambergris, designated in INCI as tetramethyl acetyloctahydronaphthalenes. Perfumery ordinarily uses it in the base, for its woody, musky and ambery grain; here it holds the whole space.
What the dose changes
The house announces a high volume and long longevity, where the original stayed close to the body. The rendering varies from one wearer to another, a property the brand claims as the very interest of its raw material: what one smells, Romano Ricci says, is the person wearing it.
What the label declares
Seven entries, not one more: denatured alcohol, fragrance, water, three ultraviolet filters that hold light at a distance and an antioxidant. No regulated allergen appears there, an argument the house has carried since the original.