With REPLICA Jazz Club, Maison Margiela recreates in Eau de Toilette the atmosphere of a Brooklyn jazz club, on a composition by Aliénor Massenet dated 2013. Amber and woody, the fragrance opens on pink pepper, lemon and neroli, places rum, clary sage and vetiver at its heart, and rests on tobacco leaf, vanilla and styrax.
Pink pepper and citrus in the opening
The opening combines pink pepper with primofiore lemon and neroli oil. This bright, slightly sharp entry contrasts with the rum accord, which gives the fragrance its subject.
A second tier built around rum
Rum absolute dominates, surrounded by clary sage oil and Java vetiver oil. Sage brings an aromatic nuance, vetiver an earthy dryness that keeps the sugar of the alcohol at bay.
Tobacco, vanilla and styrax
Tobacco leaf absolute, vanilla pod and styrax resin make up the base. Tobacco evokes the smoke of cigars, vanilla rounds out the whole, and styrax, a balsamic resin, lends it leathery accents.
Former notes
Older presentations from the house also mentioned orange, bitter orange and tonka bean. These materials no longer appear in its current list and remain on the margin.
What the label declares
The Eau de Toilette's label lists coumarin, with its scent of hay and tonka bean, among the first substances declared, even though tonka bean has left the current list of notes. Limonene, citral and linalool extend the lemon and neroli of the opening.
Cinnamal and eugenol, molecules found in cinnamon and clove, bring a spicy warmth that the listed notes do not mention. The list also includes three UV filters and four colorants, two yellow, one red and one blue, which tint the juice.