L’Amant opens the 2026 year at L’Artisan Parfumeur and marks the house’s first collaboration with Nathalie Lorson. A searing chili pepper leaf, an ink accord that evokes soot and camphor, a pivotal patchouli, a base of cypriol, sandalwood and vetiver. A spicy woody of one hundred milliliters, sold for €195.
Pascal Iakovou, for Luxsure, reads a construction built on constraints: few materials, and their friction as subject.
Olfastory’s review
Luxsure — Pascal Iakovou, April 22, 2026
The journalist holds the chili pepper leaf to be a risky technical choice: distinct from the fruit, it renders an opening greener than spicy. He makes the ink accord the pivot of the fragrance, the material that links the volatility of the chili pepper to the density of the patchouli.
He notes that Nathalie Lorson set aside oud, the dominant reflex of orientalizing niche perfumery from 2015 to 2023, and substituted cypriol, less identifiable, halfway between oakmoss and Haitian vetiver.
His judgment bears on the method: five or six materials worked for their friction rather than their accumulation, which he links to the school of Jean-Claude Ellena and Olivier Polge. Of the bottle, he says it seeks coherence of line rather than singularization.