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Dzongkha
L'Artisan Parfumeur

Composition

Dzongkha

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Dzongkha appeared in September 2006. Bertrand Duchaufour wrote the formula for L’Artisan Parfumeur, the third stop in a travel series opened by Bois Farine and Timbuktu. The subject is Bhutan: the stone and incense of the monasteries, worn leather, the smoke of a tea sweetened with spices. Powdery iris holds its base.

Ten materials across three tiers, drawn from the 2006 launch release and Robin’s review.

The opening

The start is floral and fruity, peppered with cardamom: the peony and the lychee, which the release copy gives for the freshness of the juice. Robin says she recognises neither of the two, and hears the iris from the first minutes.

The woody heart

The release describes a woody heart dominated by vetiver and enriched with a wild milk tea. Incense and cedar join it; Robin lists them among the announced materials.

The base

Cypriol, the grass from which papyrus is drawn, joins powdery iris and leather. This is the tier everyone hears best: Robin describes it as a velvety, cold iris, a temple stone.

What stays out

Some descriptions call the release’s cypriol papyrus, a plant of the same genus. Others mention spices without naming them.

What the label declares

Twenty-three entries: denatured alcohol, water, fragrance, an antioxidant, benzoic acid, benzyl alcohol, and a long file of regulated allergens — alpha-isomethyl ionone, hexyl cinnamal, limonene, citronellol, eugenol, geraniol, cinnamal, benzyl benzoate, isoeugenol, linalool, benzyl cinnamate, benzyl salicylate, citral, coumarin, farnesol, amyl cinnamal, anise alcohol. No substance banned in the European Union appears there. The list is the one the house publishes.

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