H24

Hermès describes an aromatic, plant-like freshness built on four materials: clary sage, which the house calls enveloping, narcissus, which it calls electric, rosewood, and sclarene, metallic and warm. The house does not divide them into tiers.

Top

For Dariush Alavi (Persolaise), clary sage, narcissus and rosewood form the opening: the sage gives it a green, almost pastoral energy, the narcissus its optimism, the rosewood a floral inflection.

Base

Sclarene dominates the base according to Dariush Alavi, with a bitterness that recalls the chypres of old. Kevin (Now Smell This) perceives it earlier, as a murky, metallic water note that fades quickly before the sage, light woods and amber return.

What the label declares

The ingredient list published by the house has eighteen entries. After alcohol come water and fragrance, in that order; the list also carries three UV filters, ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, ethylhexyl salicylate and butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, and an antioxidant, BHT.

It declares eleven regulated allergens, including limonene, coumarin, alpha-isomethyl ionone, geraniol and eugenol. It also names oakmoss extract, which with coumarin forms the backbone of the classic fougère; it is the natural material the list declares.