
Around Gris Charnel, BDK Parfums released a Gris Charnel Extrait and a Gris Charnel pure parfum. The 2019 composition, in Eau de Parfum, bears the signature of Mathilde Bijaoui. Woody, it combines fig, black tea and cardamom with a heart of iris, vetiver and cistus, over a base of sandalwood, tonka bean and wood.
Opening
Fig, black tea and cardamom open the composition. The fig offers a sweet fruit shot through with greenness, with a lactonic roundness evoking the flesh of the ripe fruit. The black tea brings smoke, wood and a touch of leather, while the cardamom plays on fresh spices.
Heart
The heart tier brings together iris, vetiver and cistus. The iris leans toward powder, butter and violet, facets readily attributed to the rhizome as worked in perfumery. The vetiver, an odorous root, gives wood, smoke and earth; the cistus, a resinous shrub from the Mediterranean scrubland, delivers an amber and woody material.
Base
Vetiver reappears in the base, alongside sandalwood, tonka bean and a wood note. Sandalwood is described as creamy and warm; the tonka bean evokes toasted notes, almond and caramel. The note labeled wood finally brings softness and creaminess to the accord.
Woody family
Classified woody, the composition owes this family to the vetiver, the sandalwood, the wood note and the woody facets of the black tea and the cistus. This register foregrounds roots, trunks and resins, dry or creamy: here, the smoky earth of the vetiver and the velvet of the sandalwood draw out two of its faces.
Molecules on the label
The label declares several odorous components. Coumarin, a known constituent of the tonka bean, answers to the base note; alpha-isomethyl ionone, a molecule with a violet and iris tone, echoes the heart. Geraniol recalls rose, isoeugenol a spice close to clove, while limonene, citral and linalool fall under the citrus and floral registers.
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Also composed by Mathilde Bijaoui
- Sea Salt & Bergamot CologneJo Malone
- Myrrh & TonkaJo Malone
- This Is Me !Zadig & Voltaire
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