Lavender

Among the raw materials frequently used in perfumery is lavender. Originating from the western Mediterranean basin, the Romans already used lavender as a bath fragrance and for preserving linen. The use of lavender for perfume creation was already common in Provence by the Middle Ages, but the development of its cultivation actually began in the 19th century. Historically, Roman women chewed lavender after drinking wine to freshen their breath. Currently, lavender is mainly cultivated in France and Bulgaria. It is abundant in the city of Grasse thanks to the numerous perfume houses located there.

Production and characteristics of lavender

The destruction of the lavender essential oil harvest in France between 2005 and 2010 by Stolbur phytoplasma reduced it by 25% to 50% in 2011. Bulgaria then rose to first place among the countries producing the most lavender, with harvests between 45 and 60 tons compared to 30 tons for France. It should be noted that 90% of the lavender essential oil produced in Bulgaria is intended for France. Lavenders are flowers of dicotyledonous shrubs. Lavender is violet or mauve in color. Arranged in spikes, lavenders are grown on sunny, dry, calcareous soil, except for the "lavandula stoechas" species, which prefers siliceous soil. To produce lavender essential oil, a traditional method can be used that requires prior drying. This distillation method is useful for producing fine lavender. Distillation can also be carried out on freshly crushed, undried lavender flowers, a method applied since 1990 to increase productivity. Distillation of the lavender flower takes place immediately after harvesting. The result is woody, aromatic, fresh, floral, camphoraceous notes with a slight mushroom scent.

Lavender essential oil in perfumery

Lavender essential oil is widely used in men's fragrances. However, lavender is also found in certain women's fragrances. Created in 2015, the perfume "Eau Parfumée au Thé Bleu" by Bulgari is both feminine and masculine. It opens with the scent of lavender, extremely fresh, natural, pure, aromatic and soothing. The spicy and green notes blend easily with the lavender aromas. The fragrance is said to symbolize wisdom and discretion. The men's fragrance "Héritage" by Guerlain is also strongly marked by the lavender note it contains. Launched in 1992, this luxury fragrance has top notes of tangy lemon freshness, the smooth scent of bergamot and the aroma of lavender. In the heart notes, one finds spices such as pink pepper and coriander. In the base notes, patchouli gives a woody and oriental aspect. "Brit Rhythm Femme" by Burberry is one of the women's fragrances based on lavender. Unlike the other lavender essential oil fragrances mentioned above, this perfume is rather cosmetic and creamy. The lavender is wrapped in powder, musk, talc, spices and aldehydes. This fragrance, with olfactory notes of lavender, orange blossom and vetiver, is both feminine and rock and roll.