Oriental
Francis Kurkdjian
The Paris Opera and its corps de ballet. Haute Couture and its designers. The world of perfume and its artistic imagination. These are three worlds built on discipline and rigor, culture and determination, which inspire this man of slender frame on a daily basis. Francis Kurkdjian quickly succeeded in entering the inner circle of perfumer-creators whose names are remembered fast. With admiration or jealousy. Sometimes both. Francis owes his talent to his dedication, certainly made easier by his passion for art and for this world of perfume that he discovered as a teenager, but above all to his desire never to disappoint those who place their trust in him. A winning stance, which allowed him to sign world-renowned perfumes very soon after graduating from ISIPCA, to offer bespoke fragrances, to give an olfactory dimension to artistic installations around the world, then in 2009 to create his own eponymous perfume house, of which he sold part of the capital to the LVMH group in 2017. And none of this has kept this perfumer-creator from working since 2005 within the Takasago company and signing many successful perfumes. There, he also passes on his expertise to young perfumers, a pedagogical concern at the heart of his priorities.
The ingredient does not interest me. What matters to me is the emotion of the result. Francis Kurkdjian
While perfumers worked in the shadows for a very long time, they are increasingly being brought into the spotlight by creative houses. Some of them go even further by opening their own creative house under their own name. This is notably the case of the perfumer Francis Kurkdjian, a talented creator who has worked for the biggest brands while also offering niche perfumery for those passionate about his fragrances.
The story of Francis Kurkdjian
Francis Kurkdjian decided to become a perfumer when he was barely 15 years old and knew strictly nothing about this profession. Moreover, while he became passionate about scents from that very moment, he did not yet know which path he would take. Nevertheless, he quickly realized that his journey would be marked by demands and perseverance. Still, that did not frighten him! It should be said that these values had been instilled in him through learning piano and classical dance. This artist at heart, passionate and determined, entered the ISIPCA International Perfumery School in Versailles in 1990 and simultaneously pursued a postgraduate program at the Institut Supérieur de Marketing du Luxe. Barely out of school, he had the good fortune of being entrusted with the brief for a perfume for Jean-Paul Gaultier. Today, that perfume is one of the biggest successes in the world. It is the famous Mâle by Jean-Paul Gaultier, created in 1993. This is how Francis Kurkdjian's career was immediately propelled forward. There, he joined the Quest International office in New York, before returning to Paris in 1999. Two years later, in 2001, he opened his own bespoke perfume creation studio. Moreover, that same year, he was also awarded the François Coty Perfumer Prize for the whole of his creations. Likewise, on the awards front, he won the Cosmétique Magazine Oscar for Perfumer of the Year in 2008 and was thus named Chevalier des Arts et des Lettres.
The philosophy of Francis Kurkdjian
Francis Kurkdjian crafts his perfumes as pieces of himself and his personality. Each one is designed with rigor, respect for the tradition of French perfumery, and boldness. His vision of creation proves to be contemporary while remaining authentic. Francis Kurkdjian seems to possess a natural taste for beautiful things, and it is unquestionably his extraordinary personality that makes him one of the most celebrated perfumers in the world. He is at once sensual, perfectionist and delicate, qualities all found in each of his fragrances. His creations are at once pure, sophisticated and timeless. Francis Kurkdjian possesses the art of revisiting classics, echoing the fundamentals of perfumery while always writing the future of this discipline.
Among Francis Kurkdjian's most celebrated works, note that we also owe him My Burberry from the eponymous house, Le Parfum Elie Saab, L'Extase by Nina Ricci, Le Mâle and Madame by Jean-Paul Gaultier, Miracle pour Homme by Lancôme, among others. Likewise, Francis Kurkdjian has also collaborated with Yves Saint-Laurent, Van Cleef & Arpels, Roger & Gallet, Narciso Rodriguez, Lanvin, Kenzo, Guerlain, Armani, Escada, Emmanuel Ungaro Dior, Christian Lacroix and Elie Saab.
The main perfumes created by Francis Kurkdjian
Acqua di Parma: Iris Nobile (co-created with Françoise Caron) - Baccarat: Rouge 540 - Bebe: Bebe - Blumarine: Innamorata Lovely Rose (co-created
with Philippe Bousseton) - Burberry: Bespoke Collection, Mr. Burberry EDT, EDP, Indigo, My Burberry EDP, EDT, Black, Brit Splash, Brit Rhythm For
Her Floral, Her EDP - Carven: Carven Le Parfum, EDT, L'Absolu (co-created with Jérôme Di Marino), Carven Pour Homme, L'Eau Intense (co-created
with Jérôme Di Marino) - Caudalie: Zeste de Vigne - Christian Dior: Cologne Blanche, Eau Noire - Christian Lacroix: C'est la Fête (co-created with Jean
Jacques) - Daniel Hechter: Jeans Brut, Coton Chic, Lin Sauvage, Cuir Sensuel, Black (co-created with Jérôme Di Marino) - Davidoff: Silver Shadow, Cool
Water Wave (with Jean Jacques and Antoine Lie) - Elie Saab: Collection Les Essences, Le Parfum EDP, EDT, Eau de Parfum Intense, L'Eau Couture,
Resort Collection, Rose Couture - Elizabeth Arden: Green Tea - Emanuel Ungaro: Apparition (co-created with Françoise Caron), Ungaro – Ferragamo:
F by Ferragamo - Gianni Versace: Jeans Couture Glam, Versus Time for Pleasures - Giorgio Armani: Armani Mania - Givenchy: Gentlemen Only
(co-created with Jean Jacques) - Guerlain: Eau De Lit - Rose Barbare - Guess: Guess Night (co-created with Antoine Lie), Guess Night Access (co-created
with Antoine Lie) - Indult: lsvaraya, Manakara, Tihota - Jean Paul Gaultier: Ma Dame, L'Eau d'Amour, Fleur du Mâle, Gaultier Puissance2, Fragile,
le Mâle, Le Beau Mâle, Classique Intense, Ultra Mâle - Juliette Has a Gun: Miss Charming, Lady Vengeance - Kenzo: Kenzo World, Kenzo World
Intense, Kenzo World EDT (co-created with Maïa Lernout), KenzoKi Lotus blanc, Fleur de Magnolia - Lancaster: Aquazur, Aquasun - Lancôme: Miracle
Homme, l'Aquatonic - Lanvin: Rumeur - Lolita Lempicka: Lolitaland (co-created with Maïa Lernout) - Narciso Rodriguez: For Her (co-created with Christine
Nagel), For Him EDP - Nina Ricci: L'Extase, L'Extase Caresse de Rose, L'Extase Absolue (co-created with Maïa Lernout), Rose Extase (co-created with
Maïa Lernout) - Roger & Gallet: Fleur de Figuier EDT, EDP - Springfield: Be Real - Van Cleef & Arpels: L'Eté and l'Automne - Yves Rocher: EDT
Relaxation, EDT Energie, Collection Eté, Un Matin Au Jardin Cerisier En Fleurs, Thé Vert - Yves Saint Laurent: Kouros Eau d'été, Kouros Cologne Sport.
Main awards received by Francis Kurkdjian
François Coty Award: perfumer's award for his entire career (October 2001)
Cosmetic Magazine: Oscar for Perfumer of the Year (June 2008)
Named Chevalier des Arts et des Lettres (July 2008)
Creations by Francis Kurkdjian
Oriental
Floral
Floral
Aromatic
Chypre
Floral
Oriental
Oriental
Oriental
Floral
Floral
Aromatic