Released in 2011 within the Private Blend collection, echoing Tom Ford’s lipsticks, Jasmin Rouge is signed by Rodrigo Flores-Roux. The house presents it as a spiced floral: a sambac jasmine haloed with clary sage and black and white peppers, over a base of labdanum and amber, in a deep red bottle.
Victoria (Bois de Jasmin, 2011) finds Jasmin Rouge elegant but short on surprise for its price; perfumer Ayala Moriel (SmellyBlog, 2015) counts it among the most beautiful jasmines she has worn.
Olfastory’s review
Bois de Jasmin: elegant, without revelation
On August 30, 2011, Victoria admits that a spiced jasmine wrapped in ambers and woods would once have sent her rushing to the perfume counter. She finds the composition elegant, but arriving in a market already rich in remarkable jasmines; at this price, she expected more surprise and character.
For her, the jasmine dominates from start to finish, from a green top tinged with orange and cardamom to an ambery base with animalic accents. Disappointment comes with the base: the richness of the opening fades, leaving a predictable accord of pale wood and sharp amber.
Next to Serge Lutens’ À la Nuit or Sarrasins, and Kilian’s Love & Tears, she sees it as merely a luxurious version of a familiar fruity floral: pretty, but without revelation. She gives it three stars out of five.
SmellyBlog: one of the most beautiful jasmines
In July 2015, perfumer Ayala Moriel recounts that she smelled no jasmine on a blotter before coming back to it for a series devoted to the flower. Worn, it became in her eyes one of the best jasmines, perhaps the best, that she had tried in three weeks.
She describes a realistic yet imaginative jasmine that bursts forth like a flowering bush passed while blindfolded. Spices, leather and herbs serve, in her view, only as accents: for once, jasmine truly remains the subject of the fragrance.