Poison by Dior: the whole line, from 1985 to 2018

Édouard Fléchier overdoses tuberose between the plum and coriander of the opening and a base of honey, labdanum and opopanax. Isabelle Adjani is its face from the launch. Elena Vosnaki praises its craftsmanship, Neil Chapman its joyful toxicity, and the latter finds the version sold today diminished.

Fléchier signs this first offshoot, a green floral: galbanum and mandarin at the top, freesia and orange blossom at the heart, sandalwood and vanilla at the base. Paul Sculfor and Laurence Vanhaeverbeke front its campaign, photographed by Tyen. The fragrance is no longer produced.

Annick Menardo builds the fragrance on bitter almond, which holds its own against the vanilla and sandalwood of the base; coconut, plum and apricot open onto a heart of sambac jasmine, tuberose and rose. Milla Jovovich, Monica Bellucci and Mélanie Laurent embody it in turn.

The Roller-Pearl is not a new fragrance: in it, Dior presents the Hypnotic Poison eau de toilette in a travel bottle, a red glass roll-on fitted with a ball, which the house compares to a true jewel.

Carlos Benaïm, Dominique Ropion and Olivier Polge compose, as a trio, a floral of white flowers, from Calabrian bergamot to white musks. Robin, of Now Smell This, finds nothing poisonous in it; Nicoleta Tomsa, of ÇaFleurBon, reads in it frozen flowers that sandalwood brings back to life.

Jacques Cavallier and Olivier Cresp compose it with François Demachy: a woody oriental inspired by Cinderella, with a dark rose and patchouli at the heart, amber and vanilla at the base. Eva Green embodies it in a film by Wong Kar-wai, wearing a blue dress by John Galliano.

Dior calls it floral and bittersweet: bitter orange, Grasse rose and Damask rose, Venezuelan tonka bean and vanilla. Camille Rowe is its face, in a film by So Me. Jeanne Doré, of Auparfum, sees it as a “me-too”; Elena Vosnaki, of Perfume Shrine, judges it decent, with little novelty.

Demachy takes up the idea as an eau de toilette: sweet orange and bitter orange, neroli, Grasse rose and Damask rose, vanilla and tonka. He wants it gourmand without being easy; Camille Rowe returns in Poison Club, a dance film choreographed by Holly Blakey.

Announced as fresher than its elders, this eau de toilette overdoses ginger over blood orange, Damask rose, vanilla and tonka. Jane Cunningham, of British Beauty Blogger, only half believes in the promised freshness. Dior no longer offers the spray.