Oud Satin Mood, an eau de parfum launched in 2015 by Maison Francis Kurkdjian, joins the fabric-inspired OUD mood collection. Francis Kurkdjian slides an oud wood from Laos, carried by a violet accord, over Bulgarian rose essence and Turkish rose absolute, down to a vanilla amber accord that evokes the caress of satin.
One signed reading: in 2015, Persolaise praises a pseudo-retro oud that sets oud wood within a “lipstick” floral, darker and more Arabian, and judges it far better than the 2013 OUD mood trio.
What critics say
Persolaise
On May 22, 2015, Persolaise saw Oud Satin Mood as an example of how Francis Kurkdjian revisits old forms without aiming for strangeness. The fragrance places a dry, peppery, faintly medicinal oud in an unexpected setting: the lipstick floral.
In his hands, this old-school makeup accord grows darker and more Arabian. The rose, more prominent, links the youthful optimism of the violet to the rich sensuality of the woods, and the powdery facet strikes him as more grown-up, more Marquise de Merteuil than Madame de Tourvel.
The contrast does not last to the end, he regrets: the balance tips toward the flowers and a gorgeous vanilla. He cannot see what is especially satin about it, but finds the pseudo-retro oud worthy of attention, far better than the 2013 OUD mood trio, though not equal to the original OUD of 2012.
More perfumes from Maison Francis Kurkdjian
Also composed by Francis Kurkdjian
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