Petit Matin

Maison Francis Kurkdjian does not break Petit Matin down into stages. It names five materials: litsea cubeba, orange blossom, lavandin and hawthorn, extended by a maze of musky notes. At its launch in 2016, it also cited Calabrian lemon and amber notes.

Its ingredient notes place each one: litsea cubeba, known as exotic verbena, underlines the top citrus notes; hawthorn, a mute flower whose scent must be recreated, and lavandin work at the heart; orange blossom, as an absolute, plays from heart to base; the musks form the base.

The 2016 presentation specifies the origin of three materials: litsea cubeba from Indonesia, lemon from Calabria and lavandin from Provence. The house describes litsea as an essence more acidic and greener than a lemon, between verbena and citronella.

What the label declares

Behind the alcohol, fragrance, triethyl citrate and water, the house’s list names bergamot, lemon and bitter orange peel oils, a bitter orange flower oil, a lavender oil, a jasmine extract and a musk, hexamethylindanopyran.

It also names an ultraviolet filter, an antioxidant and components that must be declared, including limonene, linalool, linalyl acetate, citral, geraniol, camphor and farnesol.

What the list adds

The list confirms orange blossom, lavandin, under the name of the genus Lavandula, and the musks. It reveals bergamot, bitter orange and a jasmine that the house does not name, and finds the lemon announced in 2016; litsea cubeba does not appear under its own name.