Passage d’Enfer Extrême is the 2020 reworking of the incense Olivia Giacobetti composed in 1999 to mark the turn of the millennium. The perfumer keeps its frame and darkens it: the lily reddens, the incense gains smoke, sandalwood and vanilla close a base softer than the original’s.
An incense frame taken up twenty years later, which sandalwood and vanilla come to thicken.
What the house declares
The house does not detail the composition of the Extrême. It says the essential: the incense note of the original is intensified, and the juice gains in mystery and in voluptuousness.
The three materials put forward are lily, incense and sandalwood, a trio that sets this version apart from the one of 1999.
What the market serves
Lily opens, white jasmine underlines the lily and the incense smoke in the middle, and the base wraps the incense in sandalwood and vanilla absolute.
The pepper and clove sometimes attributed to the fragrance, drawn from an Asian lily called Red Spicer Lily, are not named by the house: they stay out.
What sets the two versions apart
The original rests on an airy incense and a discreet floral accord, with no sweet base. The Extrême adds the creaminess of sandalwood and a warm vanilla, which lengthens the trail and softens the austerity of the first.
The aloe, myrrh and musk sometimes attributed to the Extrême belong to the 1999 original, not to this version.
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