Released in 2025 in the Signatures of the Sun collection, Gelsomino a Freddo is Acqua di Parma's eau de parfum built around a jasmine extracted through cold enfleurage. Daphne Bugey surrounds the flower with Italian lemon, pink pepper and mugwort, and darkens it with black tea, guaiac wood and cypriol.
A top more bitter than citrus
Italian lemon opens, escorted by two materials that correct its freshness. Pink pepper adds a sharp, rosy point, mugwort a dry, herbaceous bitterness that keeps the opening from being merely fresh.
This trio plays it short. It illuminates the jasmine that arrives behind it rather than holding an accord for itself, and the house's description places it on the side of the opening rather than an independent movement.
The enfleurage jasmine
The heart carries a jasmine essence obtained through enfleurage, a material more complete than the common absolute: the cold fat retains facets that heat destroys, particularly the green, milky facet of the flower.
Iris enters in the form of a concrete, neither absolute nor butter: a powdery, rooty material that gives texture more than a scent. Black tea brings tannin and smoke, and it is this that pulls the jasmine toward shadow.
A woody, dry, smoky base
Guaiac wood holds the smoke and a woody sweetness: it is from this that the base draws its grain. Patchouli enters as a fraction, stripped of its most earthy molecules, keeping only its clean, woody facet.
Cypriol, also called nagarmotha, closes the foundation: an Indian root with dry wood, slightly leathery and smoky. The three materials cast a shadow over the flower rather than providing it with an independent foundation.
The regulatory list
It lists linalool, limonene, benzyl benzoate, citral, eugenol, coumarin and benzyl salicylate: the expected markers of a citrus white floral, consistent with the olfactory description.
Two ultraviolet filters complete the list, linked to the collection's transparent bottle. However, no musk appears in the house's description: for a contemporary white floral, the absence is notable, and it matches the clarity that the reviews point out.