Écrin de fumée joined Serge Lutens’ Collection Noire in 2023 as an eau de parfum. The house dedicates it to those who burn their lives at both ends and classes it among its gourmands: a sweet, sensual tobacco, with cocoa and rum. The name plays on the French for smokescreen; Persolaise sees in it Gatsby’s parties, booze, tobacco and a golden vanilla.
Persolaise hails a return to the house’s codes and links Écrin de fumée to Gatsby’s parties, while finding its base less legible than its opening.
What critics say
Persolaise, April 2023
For Persolaise, Écrin de fumée marks an intoxicating return to the codes the house’s fans prefer, after a Poivre noir that had left him wanting more. Without the mention of Gatsby, he would rather have thought of an Orient somewhere between Fumerie turque and Chergui.
The booze, the tobacco and the gold-edged vanilla make sense, he writes, in the Gatsby context, and sparkle. The base seems to him less legible, and less satisfying, than the opening: a haze in which lines dissolve, which is perhaps part of the point.
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