The house of Serge Lutens caters primarily to an initiated clientele fond of fine perfumery. Indeed, each new fragrance from the house is always highly anticipated by discerning perfume connoisseurs, who are eager to unravel its mystery. Serge Lutens is an atypical and enigmatic creator, who uses very few words to accompany his new unisex fragrances. Once again, he draws us into the whirlwind of a new fragrance, released in 2023. A breakdown of Écrin de Fumée by Serge Lutens.
In 2023, lovers of niche perfumery are delighted to learn the news: Serge Lutens signs a new creation to enrich his Collection Noire! It is called Écrin de Fumée and evokes the wild urge to enjoy every moment to excess, even at the risk of tipping into neurosis and danger. Rich in paradoxes, Écrin de Fumée by Serge Lutens is aimed at both men and women. It is an enigmatic fragrance, at once warm and enchanting. So, how about discovering its three main ingredients, with an overall woody and spicy breath?
Serge Lutens, always minimalist formulas
When it comes to revealing the ingredients that make up this fragrance, Serge Lutens always remains mysterious and highly minimalist. The composition of Écrin de Fumée is no exception to this tradition. A reflection of the creator's exacting standards, it is both highly accomplished and relies solely on rigorously selected ingredients. Even so, Serge Lutens reveals only a tiny fraction of his creation. According to the perfumer, Écrin de Fumée is composed of three main ingredients: tobacco, rum and chocolate. The result is a powerful, intoxicating breath, intended for both women and men.
Aromatic tobacco
Let us start with tobacco. Yes, a tobacco absolute does exist, obtained through solvent extraction of its leaves. This material is mainly produced in the United States and in mainland France. In perfumery, tobacco releases a honeyed, dry, aromatic scent. It clearly evokes the smell of pipe tobacco. Rest assured, the ingredient used in this fragrance has absolutely nothing to do with the unpleasant smell of cold tobacco. Here, it reveals the best of its scent for a warm result.
Powerful rum
Rum, for its part, is more complex. Indeed, it releases very different accords depending on the alcohol selected. It can have a spicy facet close to cinnamon, a more peppery side reminiscent of ginger, a sulfurous breath similar to vanilla, a gourmand quality typical of hazelnut… Sometimes comparable to honey or to leather, rum consistently gives off a very powerful breath. It brings real character to this fragrance.
Gourmand chocolate
Finally, through contact with chocolate, Écrin de Fumée by Serge Lutens also reveals its warmest and most gourmand side. Its formula contains cocoa bean extracts. Forget the Nesquik you know well! Here, it is rather a dense, deep, balsamic ingredient, almost animalic. This roasted chocolate is terribly addictive!
As always, to describe his creation, Serge Lutens literally avoids listing raw materials. He far prefers a quote: Quick, quick, the end of the world! Our existence depends on urgency. Beneath the sound of cannons, champagne corks unfurl their gowns. Could they be on fire? Through the shroud of smoke, this day has blue eyes.