
Écrin de fumée joined Serge Lutens’ Collection Noire in 2023 as an eau de parfum. The house dedicates it to those who burn their lives at both ends and classes it among its gourmands: a sweet, sensual tobacco, with cocoa and rum. The name plays on the French for smokescreen; Persolaise sees in it Gatsby’s parties, booze, tobacco and a golden vanilla.
The house sums up the formula in three materials, cocoa, tobacco and rum, brought together in a sweet, sensual gourmand accord. It does not split them into tiers; the note lists in circulation add woody notes and place the rum in the base.
Cosmeticobs describes a sweet, sensual tobacco, chic and gourmand, with resinous, almost liqueur-like inflections, over an amber dominance and accents of strong spirits.
What stays outside
The golden vanilla Persolaise perceives stays outside the notes declared by the house, as does the cognac in his review.
What the label declares
The label declares alcohol, fragrance, water and dipropylene glycol. It names eleven allergens, including coumarin, eugenol and isoeugenol, two UV filters and three colorants: yellow CI 19140, violet CI 60730 and red CI 17200.
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