
Oud Essentiel is a woody leather fragrance by Guerlain launched in 2017 in the Les Absolus d’Orient collection, now part of the Absolus Allegoria line. Thierry Wasser pays tribute to oud wood: geranium and saffron open the composition, oud, rose and Atlas cedar form its heart, and leather, incense and guaiac wood its base. A unisex eau de parfum, in 125 ml.
The house describes Oud Essentiel as a tribute to the most sumptuous facets of oud wood, revealed in the darkness of night on contact with smooth rose notes and mysterious leather notes.
Top
Geranium and saffron open the composition. At launch, the house spoke of a subtly spicy note, evoking the red gold of the caravanserais. Varanis Ridari, of The Scented Devil, smells bergamot, pelargonium and saffron in the opening.
Heart
Oud, which the house says is worked in majesty, forms the heart with rose and Atlas cedar. At launch, the house specified a Bulgarian rose. Varanis Ridari notes that the rose and oud pairing takes over very quickly.
Base
Leather, incense and guaiac wood make up the base. The house credits the leather accord with great power and animalic facets. Varanis Ridari picks up a salty accord close to ambergris, incense and a sour leather, beneath dry woods.
What the label declares
The ingredient list published by the house names several natural materials: patchouli oil, Atlas cedar, rose, geranium oil and clove oil. Patchouli and clove are not among the announced notes.
It also lists a synthetic woody molecule, an antioxidant and the allergen declaration: citronellol, geraniol, limonene, farnesol, linalool, eugenol, citral and isoeugenol. No lilial, no lyral, no colorant. The oud falls under the term fragrance.
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