Launched by Byredo in 2014, Mojave Ghost pays tribute to the ghost flower of the Mojave Desert, a nectarless plant that blooms on arid ground. The house files it among the woody scents, genderless: ambrette and sapodilla at the top, magnolia, sandalwood and violet, over a base of cedar, musks and vetiver.
Kevin, on Now Smell This, judges in 2015 that Mojave Ghost makes poor use of its beautiful name: a sweet fruity scent, more department store than niche, that turns sour at the end and strikes him as feminine rather than unisex.
What critics say
Kevin, Now Smell This, February 2015
On February 11, 2015, Kevin recalls the ghost flower’s trick of mimicking a nectar-rich neighbor, and judges it difficult to render the smell of a desert flower in perfume. In his view Mojave Ghost only partly succeeds: he sees an insipid fragrance, closer to the department store than to niche.
The opening offers him a rich, warm fruit accord, between mamey and peach, sweetened further by vanilla, a vanillic musk and amber. Magnolia and violet never show up; he perceives only an artificial, characterless floral note.
As it dries, the fruit turns overripe and sour to him, like a very tangy peach yogurt, and the base smells stale. He finds it feminine rather than unisex.
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