Passage d’Enfer appeared in 1999, composed by Olivia Giacobetti to mark the turn of the millennium. L’Artisan Parfumeur works incense there in chiaroscuro and names it after the alleyway in the fourteenth arrondissement of Paris where the house had its offices in the 1970s. A translucent lily and white musks soften the balsamic smoke.
Three materials and nothing beyond: a lily, an incense, white musks. The rest circulates in description without the house naming it as a note.
Three declared materials
The house names the lily Lilium candidum, the incense Boswellia sacra and the white musk. It publishes no tier for them. The order kept here is the one on its own pages: the lily opens, the incense holds the middle, the musks close.
What stays outside
Robin also places aloeswood and benzoin in the formula of 1999. The revival of 2021 adds cedar to the declared trio. None of these materials has received a tier: they stay in prose.
An order the readings contradict
Passion Parfums hears an opening of cedar, a middle of incense and a base of lily and white musks, against the order kept here. The disagreement bears on the place of the lily, never on the materials themselves.
What the label declares
Eleven entries: denatured alcohol, water, fragrance, hydroxycitronellal, six regulated allergens — linalool, limonene, citronellol, geraniol, benzyl benzoate, farnesol — closed by benzyl alcohol. No substance banned in the European Union appears there.