Chypre

Characteristics of perfumes in the chypre olfactory family

The chypre olfactory family was born from an accord of raw materials, when François Coty created the perfume Chypre in 1917, even though chypre powder had already been used as a base to prepare Guerlain perfume in 1840. Among the components of the preparation is oakmoss. The latter often causes allergies, and it has been replaced by the chemical components Orcinyl 3 and Evernyl, which are also found in chypre. A few perfumes based on this preparation still exist today, but many have disappeared. An IFRA reformulation free of allergens has also been created to serve as a base for chypre perfumes. The release of the fragrance Chypre marked the beginning of the chypre olfactory family, built around the accord of oakmoss, bergamot, patchouli, rose, jasmine, and labdanum cistus. The chypre olfactory family is itself classified into several categories: classic chypre, green chypre, aromatic chypre, floral chypre, aldehydic floral chypre, fruity chypre, leather chypre.

A few examples of chypre perfumes

Miss Dior Chérie is an example of an oriental chypre perfume. It is an extremely feminine fragrance containing a majority of chypre accords, including in the top notes the citrus scent of mandarin. In its heart, floral absolutes such as Bulgarian rose with a fruity odor and Turkish rose which releases a livelier scent. In the base notes, one recognizes the smooth, syrupy odor of vanilla, Indonesian patchouli and vegetal amber. This highly concentrated chypre fragrance is a clever combination of light sensual sweetness and modern elegance. Mitsouko by Guerlain is the first fruity chypre fragrance to reach the market. Launched in 1919, it is a timeless, original and intense chypre perfume, built on a classic chypre accord with notes of cinnamon, bergamot, rose, jasmine, vetiver, peach, oakmoss, among others. This feminine chypre fragrance, classic and chic in style, has a strong personality. On the masculine side, the chypre perfume selected is Pour Homme by Yves Saint Laurent. It is a classic of perfumery created in 1971. It is the very image of Yves Saint Laurent himself, at times innocent and candid, at times unsettling and dark. It was the first masculine fragrance that Yves Saint Laurent presented: this is my Eau de Toilette. Now, it can be yours, he said when launching the chypre perfume. Yet this perfume is fresh and discreet. The blend of lemon, lavender, sage and thyme releases a fresh masculine scent, but this serves to better highlight the contrast with the somber odor of the chypre fougère, both natural and lascivious, intensified by vetiver, geranium, patchouli and an animalic note of civet.