Immortelle

Common immortelle is a subshrub of the Asteraceae family. It is a small psammophyte plant with rounded tufts and bluish highlights. Whether called “Sand Immortelle” or “Dune Immortelle,” immortelle has been known since antiquity. The flowers display a hypnotic yellow color in summer and give off a powerful scent similar to that of curry. Immortelle grows in the wild in the southern regions of France and especially in Corsica. In perfumery, immortelle absolute is used, obtained through volatile solvent extraction. Helichrysum essence can also be used, obtained through steam distillation of the dried flowers of several species.

Immortelle, a strong personality

The first scent that emerges from immortelle is that of curry. Then, one notices that this pretty plant gives off other scents close to rose and chamomile. Honeyed, sweet fragrances, but also salty and spicy ones. Immortelle gives real personality to floral, chypre or amber compositions. Guerlain has incorporated immortelle into several of its perfumes, notably in “Cuir Beluga.” Here, immortelle is positioned as a top note accompanied by mandarin and aldehydic notes. With vanilla and amber, the base brings impressive roundness. “Cuir Beluga” is a modern, even luxurious perfume. Immortelle offers intoxicating notes, reminiscent of the Corsican maquis. Immortelle is unfortunately little used in fine perfumery, perhaps precisely because of its strong personality.

The pairing of immortelle with other olfactory facets

Immortelle blends wonderfully well with floral or amber notes. In “Côte d’Amour” by L’Artisan Parfumeur, immortelle sits in the heart note, alongside rose and cypress. With aquatic notes on top, “Côte d’Amour” is a fresh perfume with iodized accents. Immortelle also proves that it can fit into a beautiful oriental perfume. “El Attarine” by Serge Lutens. This perfume remains a surprising, yet irresistible composition. Here, immortelle is found in the base note, accompanied by amber and wood. Floral notes, a woody sillage and a spicy heart (thanks to cumin) make this perfume a sun-kissed oriental of incredible softness. Another very beautiful oriental (vanilla) perfume for women is “L,” by Lolita Lempicka. Immortelle also fits into men’s perfumes, such as in “Fuel for Life Il,” by Diesel. Paired with aromatic, fougère, oriental or woody notes, immortelle proves that it can appear where least expected!

Immortelle is recognized by its sun-yellow flowers and silvery highlights. Immortelle has antifungal, antibacterial and even anti-inflammatory properties. It is also widely used in cosmetics. Immortelle has a powerful fragrance. By turns reminiscent of rose, chamomile, honey or curry, immortelle surprises everyone with its many facets. It blends wonderfully well with floral, woody, amber perfumes, but has also managed to surprise by asserting itself with oriental or aromatic notes.