Coumarin

Coumarin is a natural aromatic organic substance. It is found in large quantities in tonka bean, from which it was first extracted in 1820. This is where its name comes from, from the coumarou (or kumaru), the tropical tree on which the tonka bean grows. Coumarin was one of the first compounds to be synthesized for use in perfumery. Coumarin is also found in foods and plants such as green tea, celery, Chinese cinnamon, honey and lavender.

Coumarin, an essential element of Fougère notes

Coumarin offers complex yet persistent fragrances. The odor of coumarin resembles that of freshly cut hay, dry straw or blond tobacco. Coumarin also offers accords of almond and vanilla. In any case, the olfactory sensation remains soft and powdery. Coumarin is the indispensable element of fougère notes. It also constitutes the base note of numerous oriental and woody perfumes. It should also be said that coumarin is an excellent fixative. The first perfume made with synthesized coumarin essence was Fougère Royale by Houbigant, created in 1882. Today, it appears that coumarin is present in 90% of perfumes, 60% of which contain a concentration of more than 1%…

Fragrances that pair well with coumarin

Coumarin is therefore an exceptional ingredient, prized by perfume creators. Thanks to its good nature, coumarin can be paired with every olfactory family. Coumarin is found in numerous great perfumes for men, such as Fleur du Mâle by Jean-Paul Gaultier, where coumarin stands alone as the base note, La Nuit de l'Homme by Yves Saint-Laurent, Lacoste pour Homme by Lacoste, and others. Coumarin pairs very well with herbes de Provence, bergamot, lemon or mint, which reinforce green herbal odors and evoke the scent of the maquis on a beautiful summer day. Coumarin also blends particularly well with vanilla and benzoin. These two materials reinforce the vanilla odor already present in coumarin, and bring these perfumes a very sweet roundness. The iconic perfume Jicky by Guerlain combines coumarin and vanilla in the base note. In the heart notes, one discovers geranium, iris and rose. Jicky, which is a tribute in memory of the love for a young woman, offers sparkling yet soft fragrances, a very avant-garde perfume for its time.

Coumarin, a natural organic substance, constitutes the base note of woody and oriental fragrances. Coumarin is also the indispensable note of fougère accords. Coumarin is capable of elevating numerous fragrances. It is, moreover, an excellent fixative. For all these reasons, coumarin blends perfectly well with other olfactory families. Present in 90% of perfumes, coumarin is an inexhaustible palette of scents for perfume creators.