Amber

Amber is a fossil resin, secreted by conifers. Amber stones are mainly used in jewelry. In perfumery, it is ambergris that interests perfumers. To the naked eye, the ambergris stone is not very attractive, it is grayish, light and reminiscent of a pumice stone. It is, however, a very rich and very rare material. Ambergris comes from the sperm whale.

It is a kind of “stone” that the sperm whale expels through natural means when it has eaten too many octopuses and squid. Carried by the currents, the amber stones, then in the form of blocks, wash up on the deserted coasts of New Zealand and Madagascar.

The warm notes of amber perfumes

The scent of ambergris varies according to the origin of the stone blocks and their time spent floating. As a result, amber offers multiple facets. Woody, camphorous, animalic, even fecal odors, notes of tobacco, musk, but also marine notes, seaweed, sea urchin or even rotten fish… Regardless, ambergris is renowned for its warm notes. Amber lends warmth, longevity and even a soft sensuality to the wearer. Moreover, it brings to compositions a harmony rarely found with other raw materials. A beautiful tribute is paid to it with the perfume “Ambre gris” by Balmain. The tenacious notes of ambergris are excellent fixatives, which is why they are mainly found as base notes. Today only synthetic materials are used to reproduce this wonderful fragrance that is ambergris.

Ambergris and its pairing with olfactory families

Thanks to its fixative power and natural harmony, ambergris is found in numerous compositions. It pairs particularly well with notes such as vanilla, sandalwood, labdanum, white musk, and is therefore found in oriental perfumes. As in the perfume “Ambre nuit” by Dior, where amber naturally settles as a base note, accompanied by cedarwood and patchouli. Paired with rose and spices, “Ambre Nuit” tells the story of a nocturnal seduction. Amber can also be found in surprising, floral compositions such as in the perfume “Miracle” by Lancôme. Here, amber is again recognizable, positioned as a base note. In the heart, a wonderful floral bouquet, composed of jasmine and magnolia, brings sensuality amid musky and amber notes. The result is a perfume at the height of femininity, dynamic and above all very modern.

Originally, ambergris comes from sperm whales. The gray stones wash up on the coasts. Over time, they acquire different colors and scents. The synthetic materials used in perfumery reflect notes renowned for their warmth and sensuality. Ambergris is an excellent fixative and brings real harmony to every perfume. It is true that amber, like other animalic materials, is a pheromone and acts directly on the wearer. An undeniable asset for perfumers!