Ambergris

Amber is a fossil resin, secreted by conifers. Amber stones are mainly used in jewelry making. In perfumery, it is ambergris that interests perfumers. To the naked eye, the ambergris stone is not very attractive, it is grayish, light, and brings to mind a piece of pumice. It is nonetheless a very rich and very rare material. Ambergris comes from the sperm whale. It is a kind of “stone” that the sperm whale expels through natural passages when it has eaten too much octopus and squid. Carried by the currents, the blocks of ambergris wash up on the deserted coasts of New Zealand and Madagascar.

The warm notes of amber

The scent of ambergris varies depending on the origin of the blocks of stone and their time spent floating. As a result, amber offers multiple facets. Woody, camphoraceous, animalic, even fecal scents, notes of tobacco, of musk, but also marine notes, of seaweed, sea urchin, or even rotten fish… Regardless, ambergris is renowned for its warm notes. Amber gives warmth, tenacity, and even a gentle sensuality to the one who wears it. It also brings compositions a harmony rarely found with other raw materials. A beautiful tribute is paid to it with the fragrance Ambre gris by Balmain. The tenacious notes of ambergris are excellent fixatives, which is why they are mainly found in the base notes. Today only synthetic materials are used to reproduce this wonderful scent that is ambergris.

Ambergris and its pairing with olfactory families

Thanks to its fixative power and natural harmony, ambergris is found in numerous compositions. It pairs particularly well with notes such as vanilla, sandalwood, labdanum, and white musk, and is therefore found in oriental fragrances. As in Ambre nuit by Dior, where amber naturally sits in the base notes, accompanied by cedarwood and patchouli. Paired with rose and spices, Ambre Nuit is the story of a nocturnal seduction. Amber can also be found in surprising, floral compositions such as Miracle by Lancôme. Here, amber is again recognizable in the base notes. In the heart, a wonderful floral bouquet, composed of jasmine and magnolia, brings sensuality amid musky and amber notes. The result is a fragrance at the height of femininity, dynamic and above all very modern.

At the outset, ambergris comes from sperm whales. The gray stones wash up on the coasts. Over time, they take on different colors and scents. The synthetic materials used in perfumery reflect notes renowned for their warmth and sensuality. Ambergris is an excellent fixative and brings real harmony to every fragrance. It is true that amber, like other animalic materials, is a pheromone and acts directly on the one who wears it. An undeniable asset for perfumers!