Suede

The suede accord is an imaginary note created by perfumers. It is a note that is both sweet and velvety, which has modernized the leather accords that already existed. The scent of the suede accord comes either from the secretions of the musk deer, which contain muscone, or from the tactile evocation of skin on suede, which happens to be softer and gentler than leather. The scent of this suede accord is similar to that of the glandular secretions of the musk deer. The musk deer lives on the Tibetan plateau, in Central Asia.

The animalic scent present in leather accords

The musk deer is well known and above all hunted for the musk secretion produced by its gland, itself highly prized in perfumery. The suede accord is subtle and refined and features in the greatest perfumes. Musk is no longer used in that way today, and hunting it has become forbidden. The small Asian deer has become a protected species. The musk deer is now reproduced scientifically in laboratories. The musk deer offers a wide palette of scents, woody, floral, animalic, but also powdery and fruity. Suede accords blend wonderfully well with oriental, woody or chypre perfumes, replacing the old leather notes. The suede accord is softer, more subtly sensual. Leathery notes were very fashionable between the 1920s and the 1970s. It can be said that they fell out of fashion after 1980. Nevertheless, great perfumers still enjoy using them, even elevating them.

Suede and its different olfactory pairings

There is no doubt that leathery essences are essences of character and appeal to those seeking scents that are as original as they are unexpected. Suede notes (or the suede accord) are most often positioned as a base note in a perfume, where they bring all their sensuality and depth. Serge Lutens put the suede accord in the spotlight through Daim Blond. Released in 2004, it offers a different approach to leathery notes, softer, spicier, more velvety. Daim Blond showcases this suede accord, promising a unique olfactory journey. Suede can be found in floral fragrances such as 1932 by Chanel. Here, suede sits in the base note alongside white musks and vetiver. Of course, suede is also found in oriental perfumes such as the magnificent fragrance by Yves Saint Laurent, L’Homme Parfum Intense, where the suede accord is positioned in the base note accompanied by a leather accord for maximum sensuality. Suede can also be found in woody perfumes, such as in Euphoria Men by Calvin Klein, an aromatic woody where suede sits in the base note alongside patchouli and amber. It can also be found in London by Tom Ford, a spicy woody that accompanied the opening of the famous Tom Ford's London boutique.

While the suede accord is part of great fragrances, the musk deer itself is no longer hunted. Its scent is now entirely reproduced synthetically. Suede is increasingly used in place of leathery notes because it is less aggressive and more subtle.