Oriental
Leather
Description of the leather olfactory family/facet
As its name suggests, the leather olfactory family in perfumery recalls the smell of leather. It is composed of tobacco, wood and leather notes and serves mainly as a base for masculine fragrances. Initially, leather notes were created using leather scraps recovered from the manufacture of Russian army boots. Perfumers in Grasse infused and tanned them with burnt birch bark, which resulted in the characteristic scent of the leather note. Perfume creators gradually replaced leather infusions with birch bark essence, which became one of the raw materials necessary for creating leather-based fragrances. As animal raw materials gradually disappeared and trends evolved over time, the leather family gradually faded and became a facet. New leather notes are more subtle and velvety.
A few leather-based fragrances
Launched in 1927, the unisex fragrance Cuir de Russie by Chanel magnifies the scent of the boots of the Russian imperial guard. Leather notes can be recognized in the base along with cade wood, incense and tobacco. Its heart is made of iris, jasmine, rose and ylang-ylang notes. In the top notes, mandarin and bergamot can be found. This leathery, woody fragrance evokes the enigma of Russian beauty as well as the warmth of the roaring twenties in Paris. Cuir Intense by Pierre Cardin is a masculine fragrance with a leather scent. Created by Benoist Lapouza in 2009, the fruity notes such as mandarin, grapefruit and pineapple found in the top notes refresh the pepper, oud and redcurrant. The base is very different, with musk, leather, amber and birch. Our third leather fragrance selection concerns a creative approach inspired by a method originating from the Middle East. Released in 2011, Cuir Noir by Armani is part of the house's Armani Privé 1001 nuits fragrance line. In this line, Giorgio Armani created oriental scents based on oud wood, rose and amber. This time, it is leather's turn to be worked. Coriander and nutmeg can be found in its top notes. Sandalwood and rose blend together in its heart. Leather appears in the base note along with vanilla, guaiac wood, oud wood and benzoin.
“Leather” as a secondary family
Oriental
Oriental
Oriental
Woody
Fougère
Woody
Woody
Oriental
Citrus
Woody
Oriental
Floral