Ambroxan

Ambroxan is a synthetic molecule, the result of organic research, which emerged in the 1950s. Ambroxan, entirely artificial, is obtained from sclareol, found in sage essence. Ambroxan is the exact representation of ambergris. Indeed, ambergris is a secretion of the sperm whale, produced by the latter when it eats too much octopus, among other things. In pain, the sperm whale would spontaneously release the amber. Sperm whale and whale hunting was banned in 1986, and the odor of ambergris had to be recreated synthetically; this is the role that ambroxan plays.

The highly prized odor of ambroxan

Ambroxan has thus replaced, since the 1950s, ambergris, which was widely used in perfumery at the time. Ambroxan is a complex ingredient, very rich and faceted. It is most often used as a base note where it envelops the other notes. Ambroxan gives off woody, amber, even animalic scents, and it is highly prized in oriental compositions where it offers incredible sensuality. In reality, the sillage that ambroxan leaves behind is both velvety and uniquely sensual. Its amber tonality also brings to mind labdanum cistus. Ambroxan wonderfully represents, olfactively, the notes that the sperm whale's ambergris used to give off. It is a fascinating material that attracts many noses; some even say that it is the most sensual molecule.

Ambroxan and its association with different olfactory notes

Because of the sensuality it exudes, ambroxan is very often used in ultra-feminine, oriental fragrances, such as Loverdose by Diesel, Midnight Poisson by Christian Dior, Manifesto L’Elixir by Yves Saint Laurent, or Ambre Orient by Armani. Ambroxan can also be discovered at the heart of chypre fragrances, as in Mon Paris by Yves Saint Laurent, or woody fragrances, as in Ungaro for Him by Emmanuel Ungaro. Nevertheless, ambroxan has not finished surprising us, as it can also be found in floral fragrances, such as Kenzo World (floral-woody-musky) by Kenzo, or Rumeur (floral-woody-musky) by Lancôme. In these two florals, ambroxan is always positioned as a base note, where it lends the compositions all the sensuality of a great perfume. Ambroxan is also found in aromatic fougère fragrances, such as Eros by Versace, where it sits as a heart note alongside tonka bean, as well as in the composition of Legend by Montblanc. Here, ambroxan is positioned as a base note alongside tonka bean and sandalwood.

An alternative to ambergris, which was widely used in the past, ambroxan is a synthetic molecule that wonderfully reproduces the odor of ambergris. Highly faceted and complex, ambroxan is a material highly favored by noses. It appears in the compositions of many fragrances, whether floral, fruity, aromatic, oriental, or woody.