FougèreJean Carles
Just as certain perfumes endure through the ages, certain great perfumers have such immense renown that it endures even after their death. Thus, even though the celebrated perfumer Jean Carles left us in 1966, he remains one of the emblematic figures of French perfumery. Far more than a mere creator, he was also the founder of a prestigious perfumery school. Through it, he sought to perpetuate his knowledge and pass it on to future generations.
The Jean Carles method
Beyond being a renowned French perfumer, Jean Carles is the founder and first director of the famous Roure perfumery school located in Grasse. It opened its doors in 1946. Moreover, Jean Carles established, at the same time, a method to help his students learn raw materials more easily. Although his method is still used by fragrance professionals today, it was not published immediately. It was not until 1988 that it appeared in an article titled Ma méthode de création en parfumerie. It allows the distinction between natural and synthetic raw materials. Likewise, it was also Jean Carles who established the concept of top notes, heart notes and base notes in perfumes. As one might gather, Jean Carles was a man who loved passing on his knowledge. He was thus the mentor of numerous renowned perfumers working today. He trained notably Monique Sclienger as well as Jacques Polge, official perfumer of the house Chanel. Likewise, he accepted into his school all passionate young aspiring creators, including those who did not come from a chemistry background. Today, the renown of the school founded by Jean Carles is such that, of the few privileged individuals who have the chance to enter it each year, all are guaranteed a position at the end of their three years of training.
Jean Carles's creations and talent
Jean Carles is a perfumer celebrated for his incredible ability to recognize and use raw materials. Moreover, he was also renowned for his speed of execution. Thus, working with this creator meant securing a shorter development time than his competitors. Jean Carles was a lover of simple formulas and fragrances accessible to everyone. He always sought to offer affordable products. Among his greatest creations, Jean Carles crafted the perfumes Miss Dior for the eponymous house as well as L’Air du Temps for Nina Ricci. He also worked for the houses Balenciaga, Balmain, Elisabeth Arden and Hermès. As a side note, he developed a disability toward the end of his life: he lost his sense of smell. Nevertheless, he continued to work without anyone knowing of his difficulties. Thus, when Jean Carles crafted Miss Dior, he could no longer smell his own creations—which shows just how immense his technical mastery was.
Creations by Jean Carles
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