Paradisone

The importance of jasmine in perfumery

There are no fewer than 300 different species of jasmine. However, it is jasmine grandiflorum that interests all perfumers. This variety is very delicate, requiring southern exposure, and it likes neither cold nor humid winters. Its foliage is very fine and its white flower is star-shaped and very fragile, which is why it is picked at dawn, just before sunrise. Until 1930, jasmine constituted the main production of Grasse. Since 1970, this jasmine has been entirely devoted to Chanel. Other estates then began replanting jasmine, mainly Domaine de Manon. Its jasmine production is entirely reserved for the house of Dior. Jasmine cultivation moved to Egypt, then to Morocco, then to India, but the scents were no longer quite the same as those of grandiflorum. Faced with this shortage of jasmine, it was Doctor Édouard Demole of Firmenich who had the idea of recreating its odor synthetically, first with hedione, then with paradisone.

The use of paradisone in perfumery

Like jasmine, paradisone is used across all olfactory families. The chemical molecule is found equally in masculine or feminine compositions. Paradisone is found in woody fragrances such as Acqua Di Gio Essenza by Armani. Here, paradisone is found in the heart note associated with jasmine. Another woody-aromatic that contains paradisone is Pi Air by Givenchy, but paradisone can also be found in an oriental-woody fragrance such as Mon Guerlain by Guerlain, which here pairs paradisone with jasmine. Another oriental that contains paradisone is Bikini Questa Sera by Christian Louboutin. Paradisone can combine with all other fragrances, and it is found in numerous perfumes, among which Eau Océane by Biotherm, Ombre et Lumière by Armani, or also CK All by Calvin Klein.

An alternative to jasmine, paradisone is an odorant molecule. More powerful and purer than hedione, paradisone wonderfully represents the olfactory odor of jasmine. As such, it integrates beautifully within all olfactory families.