Perfume composition

Understanding the olfactory pyramid of perfumes

While the world of perfumery is above all poetic and dreamlike, it nonetheless rests on very physical and scientific foundations. Thus, the construction of an olfactory pyramid has been adopted by all perfumers. It is of critical importance when creating a perfume. The olfactory pyramid serves to balance the recipe of a fragrance to make it harmonious. It also serves to make its evaporation gradual and continuous. Thus, perfumes deliver different olfactory messages in turn over time and do not fully reveal themselves from their first breath. They evolve with the wearer, and it is precisely the olfactory pyramid that helps make a perfume more alive. Respecting the olfactory pyramid is all the more important when exclusively natural materials are used. Conversely, certain synthetic products, being more linear, allow for more “cheating.”

The three parts of the olfactory pyramid that determine the composition of a perfume

The traditional structure of a perfume is divided into three groups. Together, these three categories form the olfactory pyramid.

The top notes of a perfume

Top notes constitute the most volatile part of fragrances. These are the scents that begin just after a perfume is sprayed. Most often, this is a fresh, green scent, whose evaporation begins after half an hour to one hour at most. Generally, the top notes of perfumes consist of citrus, aromatic notes, and green, fresh scents.

The heart notes of a perfume

Heart notes, meanwhile, unfold over several hours and constitute the characteristic scent of a perfume. These are the notes that give a recipe its entire personality and that are perceived over several hours. Generally speaking, these are floral, fruity, or spicy scents.

The base notes of a perfume

Finally, base notes are the ones that evaporate the most slowly. Sometimes their evaporation even takes several days. Their main function is to anchor the perfume so that it lasts as long as possible. These are most commonly woody, sweet, and leathery notes. Balsams, wood, moss, amber, and vanilla are key ingredients in this category.

The more prominent the top note of a perfume, the fresher and more evanescent the result will be. Conversely, the more present the base notes are, the richer and more opulent the perfume obtained will be.